Walk out of your downtown hotel’s front lobby. Pull your SUV with out-of-state plates out from the parking lot and onto 13th Street. Drive south. Enter one of Rosenblatt Stadium’s parking lots with ease. Walk straight up to the ticket window, pick up a couple of ducats, and head right through the gates of the fabled ‘Blatt.
Now wake up. You’re dreaming. And it’s a light, fluffy, don’t-wake-me-I’m-too-comfortable kind of dream. If you think you’re going to replicate the aforementioned scenario at this year’s College World Series (the last one at Rosenblatt, if you haven’t heard), I have a house near the ‘Blatt I’d like to sell you.
For the next two weeks, Omaha becomes the epicenter of collegiate sports, even more so now that people are coming to the ‘Blatt to cross it off their Bucket Lists. After school lets out in Omaha and before revelers light fireworks in honor of the nation’s birthday, the city shines as a destination for fans following teams, families with the Midwest on their vacation schedule, and all-around baseball junkies.
But with longstanding traditions come clichés. Not all are bad, mind you. I don’t think you’ll find anyone in Omaha who likes the combination of a double cheeseburger, fresh French fries, and a large hot fudge malt from Zesto’s more than I do. Seriously. (OK, except for the good folks at Zesto’s, who probably pay their mortgage with the proceeds.) My point? There are plenty of places to see, plenty of tasty treats to consume, and plenty of bars at which to imbibe other than the ones ESPN and “that one friend who went to that one College World Series that one time” tell you to check out.
So, with that, I present you with one man’s Secrets to the CWS*.
If you are reading this while searching online for superb deals for hotels in downtown Omaha these next two weeks, I’ll do you a favor. Shut that other browser window. Go do something else. It is likely (read: I would bet my Monday night CWS tickets on it) that either a) there’s no room at the inn anywhere downtown, or b) if there is, you’d have to sell your CWS tickets just to afford a spot inside.
If you’re riding to and through Omaha with your family in tow, and you’ve got your own wheels, I’d recommend trying to find a hotel in central or west Omaha. Pick up a Garmin, plot your points of interest in Google Maps, or pick up the ancient scroll that is the city map, and navigate to and from the games and other Omaha offerings via an off-site hotel. A quick search on Expedia or similar travel websites offers some deals for these types of options.
If you’re still looking for a room and it must be downtown, try the Magnolia Hotel. Located three blocks from the Old Market bar and restaurant district (site of many a party during the CWS), this renovated and contemporary hotel offers a hosted happy hour, plenty of cab or shuttle options should you enjoy happy hour too much, and warm cookies at night when you’re ready to go to sleep (or before you go out into the Omaha nightlife). At last check, rooms were still available (at $250+). Don’t believe me? The Chicago Tribune said it was a cool place to stay.
There’s a common misperception that tickets are all but impossible to find in Omaha during the event. And sure, if you want box tickets you’re likely to find them only on ticket broker websites or in the sweaty palms of scalpers. But one of the great equalizers during the Series still remains, even in the event’s last year at Rosenblatt: the general admission line.
I’m not saying you can’t stumble across some reserved seats; some of the best tickets I’ve had for past CWS games I found serendipitously (and usually right before my game of choice). But if you don’t want to be waiting for someone’s generosity to be the difference between you getting into the game and sitting outside watching it at a random tent, get in the GA line. Control you own destiny.
When you get to Omaha, stop by Rosenblatt (when games aren’t going on, but the Box Office is open) or any of the other places in town on this list and pick up a GA Ticket Book. For $70, the book provides you 10 GA tickets. But the price break comes with a few strings attached.
Namely, life in the GA line often resembles an immunity challenge from “Survivor”. Get there early if you plan on getting a seat you actually want; lines for GA seats often wrap multiple times around the hill on which Rosenblatt is perched. Bring water and food, but nothing you can live without once you get to the front of the line; you can’t bring any drinks or food inside, and unless you’ve got someone to hold your spot in line, don’t expect food vendors to bring you anything. Bathrooms? Again, either find someone to hold your place in line, or get good at holding, well, it.
The payoff makes the wait, the sweat, and the food deprivation worth all your efforts. The accessibility (once inside the ‘Blatt) afforded by a spot in the bleachers, along with the beautiful sight lines and sense of genuine camaraderie from your fellow bleacher creatures, is what this event is all about.
Avoid 13th and 10th Streets around the stadium, if at all possible, unless a) you have a parking pass for the ‘Blatt lots, b) you have a death wish, or c) you are exiting off Interstate 80 and you don’t have any other options.
If you plan on parking in the neighborhoods surrounding the stadium, swing directly into those areas by taking 20th and 16th Streets over and under I-80. You’ll be working your way backward to Rosenblatt, and you’ll have a healthy walk to tackle, but you won’t waste your afternoon waiting for oblivious teenage kids and their equally clueless parents to cross 13th or 10th against the signal (and against the helpful efforts of Omaha’s finest policemen, policewomen, and policehorses).
If you can’t avoid the major arteries into Rosenblatt areas pack enough patience, refreshments, and petroleum to survive being stalled at traffic lights and crosswalks.
To save on word count, and to prevent any mad rushes to my refrigerator mid-sentence, I’ll limit my cuisine suggestions to options outside the stadium walls.
Also, I kid about Zesto’s. Go there. You have to try a hot fudge malt, even when you’re in the shade-less line and the late afternoon sun is beating on your brow. That makes the malt even better, naturally. But do me a favor: If you’re going to an evening CWS game, hit up Zesto’s when you get to the park early (preferably while there are still a few innings left in the afternoon game). You’ll have a third of the line to wait in, and when I show up late there will be one less person between me and my malt. And my burger. And my fries.
But if you want a great burger, and you’re on your way to Rosenblatt via the Interstate or any of the major thoroughfares in south Omaha, stop by Dinker’s Bar. This local favorite is a few blocks away from the ‘Blatt, but the great staff and greater food offer repose from the craziness surrounding the stadium during the Series.
Want to start your day right with a balanced breakfast? Stop by Louis M’s Burger Lust (I promise, they have more than burgers). Pick up a paper and read about the previous day’s CWS stories and the upcoming games. Sip on some solid coffee. And order any one of the classic diner breakfast fares. Or a burger and a beer, since it is the CWS and Louis M’s does have a wide array of cold brews. Plus, you’re only a few blocks from three main traffic arteries that will lead to the park’s parking promised lands.
Have your fill of beef yet? Then get some of the best (and most authentic) Mexican food in town. Again, it is just a few blocks from Rosenblatt, residing in an old sandwich shop. The it is Los Portales, home to Omaha’s best tortas. Dirt cheap, perfectly prepared, and as casual as its diverse patrons, Portales is a great representation of the similarly exceptional Latin American cuisine options available throughout Omaha’s south side.
The traditional steak dinner is synonymous with Omaha. Any of the traditional stops – Gorat’s, Piccolo Pete’s, and Caniglia’s Venice Inn – are all solid choices. But when you’re headed back toward the Old Market and your hotel (or first tavern of the evening), take the drive down 10th Street and stop at Cascio’s. But show up hungry.
The Old Market’s taverns and lounges offer everything you could ask for in a bar district: Microbreweries, martini lounges, wine bars, sports bars, cigar bars, etc. Plus, places like Barry O’s offer shuttle service to Rosenblatt from the front steps of their establishments. Door to door service, with a smile and some suds.
But if it is tradition you’re after, just find your way to Leavenworth Street. There you’ll find Pauli’s, the essential drinking spot during the Series. I think the line for Pauli’s actually formed today. But for good reason: there are plenty of open-air areas to enjoy, tons of TVs for following the games, and copious amounts of people from all parts of the country. Pauli’s is, simply, the place to be seen during the CWS nightlife.
A shorter line (but just as many wonderful people and heavy pours) awaits just a few blocks down Leavenworth at Barrett’s Barleycorn. An official headquarters for LSU and their fans when the Tigers make the trip to Omaha, Barrett’s won’t be full of purple and gold like last year when the Bayou Bengals won the title. LSU’s loss might be your gain; team up with your fellow fans and take over this friendly bar.
Plenty to Do Near the Future Home of the CWS
When you’re in town, take a trip further north from Rosenblatt and check out the future home of the College World Series. That would be TD Ameritrade Park, the glass and brick beacon in Omaha’s North Downtown area around which hotels, restaurants, bars, and art studios continue to grow.
Places like Barley’s, The Old Mattress Factory, and the Union Pizzeria offer family dining functionality and fully developed options behind the bar. The Matt touts live music, tents, and DJs during the Series’ two weekends. And you can catch a shuttle to the stadium from multiple locations nearby.
But if you’re looking for a slice of pizza and a some al fresco dining, check out Goodnights. This pizza-only establishment features fun and creative toppings options for your pie, as well as a comprehensive (and quite cheeky) shot menu. And the great garage doors that open to fresh air also provide diners and drinkers with views of the Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge and, oh yeah, a multi-million dollar stadium being erected to keep the College World Series in Omaha. Consider it the precursor to next year’s tailgating options, only with hand-made pizza dough.
Tired of baseball? Missing your movies or longing for some tunes? Check out Film Streams or Slowdown, which are both right around the corner from Goodnights. These city entertainment icons were two of the first businesses to open in the North Omaha cultural arts district. But not the first. That would be the Hot Shops Art Center. My description wouldn’t do this artistic area justice, so click here to learn more.
The city’s other Most Important Tradition, besides the College World Series, resides directly outside the outfield fence. The Henry Doorly Zoo is amazing, and worth the wait in line during the busy CWS weeks. Just do me a favor and go early (the zoo opens at 8:30 a.m. daily). You’ll need to, just to get a parking spot.
There is more to Omaha than the areas immediately surrounding Rosenblatt Stadium. But you’re not coming to our fair city to shop out West or golf or hike and bike the city’s many trails. If you take these activities in, they’ll be byproducts of your trip to Omaha’s beloved College World Series.
The city rolls out the red carpet for these two weeks. Do this local a favor: pack your days full and venture outside the predetermined traditions established during previous decades of the CWS. Everyone in Omaha will be happy to see you, which always makes it easy to have a great trip. No matter how your team does in the tournament.
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* I offer the options based on the premise that during the 13 days of the CWS, time off work, access to tickets, appropriate levels of discretionary funds, and the potential for short-term high cholesterol problems are problems easily wished away. (Which, of course, they are not. Alas.)
** Also, I’m not being paid by any of these establishments to hawk their wares or confess to loving their cooking. But, if any such establishment wants to pay me for these efforts, I’ll accept cash, check, or cheeseburgers.